Torquing sense....

I spoke previously of borrowing or making a tool to hold the crank pulley while I torqued down the crankshaft bolt. So I visited my friendly Ford workshop and spoke to Reg McCarthy the head mechanic.

He explained they don't use that tool, what they do is screw a 10mm bolt into the engine block where one of the bellhousing bolts would go, then prop an Allen key between it and the flywheel starter gear so that when you torque the crank, the allen key jams between the bolt and flywheel teeth.

I had my doubts but I tried it out - that flywheel gear looks awfully fragile...

But.....

Strewth, it works!!!! I gave the bolt plenty of torque (100Nm) and then a quarter turn on a reinforced breaker bar. Problem solved and it did not cost me a cent!

I have noticed that the mount at the rear of the starter motor, and the engine mount share a bolt hole in the block. This means a bit of misalignment for the engine mount so I have to shave a millimeter off the engine mount so it can accommodate the starter mount. Also the Birkin supplied cap screws for the engine mount are a tad short. They will do the job but only a 10mm bite into the block? The bolts can be at least another 5mm longer.

Another little task looming is modifying the water rail to accommodate the Birkin exhaust headers. From what I can see the #1 exhaust fouls the bottom of the water rail right underneath the water outlet, and I have to machine off a chunk of the casting and re-weld a plate so that it clears. I cannot do that right now as I cannot fit the headers to the engine even for a trial fit as the engine stand is in the way of fitting the 4-1 header set in place.......Good motivation to get that engine off its stand ASAP.